Right now, in the midst of autumn, produce bins overflow with pumpkins, potatoes, all sorts of squash and wild mushrooms. Plus, there is plenty of corn, lots of red peppers and eggplants, and tomatoes from late summer.
It's almost a time of overload for Northern California chefs, but home cooks, busy with work and school schedules, often have a hard time taking advantage of the bounty. To help, we challenged several local chefs to turn their seasonal creations into inspiration for the home cook. They've responded with recipes that not only use the best of the season, but use it in dishes that can be made ahead.
In other words, they're ready-when-you-are recipes. From a home-style Thai chicken curry to a grand platter of veal and wild mushrooms, these recipes range from those that are perfect for a weekday dinner to those that will work for dinner parties.
Ruggero Gadaldi of Antica Trattoria and Pesce restaurants in San Francisco offers braised veal shanks and vegetables with wild mushroom ragout. "It stays nice and moist, and absorbs the flavors overnight," says Gadaldi, who recalls the popularity of braised dishes in his native Italy.
A Thai red curry chicken from Malee Johnson of Malee Thai and Vietnamese Restaurant in San Francisco is just the kind of dish she and her children rely on, since they work in the restaurant seven days a week.
Make-ahead side dishes can energize simply prepared main courses. Bruce Frieseke of Manzanita in Healdsburg developed a show-stopping white corn pudding that lives up to his promise to be even better the second day.
For vegetarians, Jean Alberti of Kokkari in San Francisco creates a vegetable moussaka. The recipe has many steps, but each is straightforward. It can be prepared ahead and layered in a casserole dish, then baked later.
Richard Sandoval of Maya in San Francisco prepares chayote relleno, a vegetarian meal-on-a-plate that embodies the culinary instincts he honed in his native Mexico.
He stuffs the kicky squash "sandwich" with crunchy roasted and sauteed vegetables and goat cheese, then adds flavor and color with chive oil, red pepper reduction and sweet potato puree.
When it comes to reaping the benefits of the fall harvest, home cooks can follow these chefs' lead: Plan ahead, buy what's freshest, and bring the bounty home.
Chefs & their restaurants
-- Jean Alberti. Kokkari Estiatorio, 200 Jackson St. (at Front), San Francisco; (415) 981-0983. Lunch weekdays, dinner Monday-Saturday.
-- Bruce Frieseke. Manzanita, 336 Healdsburg Ave. (near North Street), Healdsburg; (707) 433-8111. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
-- Ruggero Gadaldi. Antica Trattoria, 2400 Polk St. (at Union), San Francisco; (415) 928-5797. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Pesce, 2227 Polk St. (near Green Street), San Francisco; (415) 928-8025. Dinner Monday-Saturday.
-- Malee Johnson. Malee Thai and Vietnamese Restaurant, 1450 Lombard St. (near Van Ness Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 345-9001. Lunch and dinner daily.
WHITE-CORN BREAD PUDDING
Bruce Frieseke serves this rich and colorful side dish alongside a pork chop at Manzanita Restaurant in Healdsburg. It works well with yellow corn, too.
INGREDIENTS:
1 loaf of country-style white bread, crust removed
3 ears of fresh white corn, husks and silks removed
2 whole eggs
8 egg yolks
3 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Roasted red pepper strips
Arugula leaves
Corn and Red Onion Ragout (see recipe)
INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan.
Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and set aside.
Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cobs by holding each ear on end and slicing straight downward. Break the cobs in half. Set kernels and cobs aside.
Combine the eggs, egg yolks, cream, milk, sugar, vanilla, salt and olive oil in the top of a large double boiler; whisk to blend. Add the corn cobs.
Pour 1 inch of water into the bottom of the double boiler. Bring to a simmer. Set the top of the double boiler in place. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring and scraping frequently to keep the mixture from sticking to the bottom and sides of the pot.
Remove the custard from the heat. Discard the corn cobs. Add the bread cubes, corn kernels and thyme to the pot. Stir gently, then set aside for 5 minutes, or until the bread is completely saturated with custard.
Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking pan and smooth the top. Cover the pan tightly with foil and place in a larger baking pan. Add enough hot water to come halfway up the side of the baking pan. Place in the oven and cover both pans with a baking sheet.
Bake for about 45 minutes, until the pudding is quite firm. Remove the baking sheet and foil and bake for 10 minutes longer, until a golden-brown crust forms on top. Remove from the oven and let sit for 20 minutes before serving.
Garnish with roasted red peppers, arugula and the Corn and Red Onion Ragout.
Serves 9.
-- For advance preparation: Bake the pudding, then let it cool. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. To serve, cut the pudding into squares, place on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 400 degrees oven for 4 to 5 minutes, until warmed through.
PER SERVING (without the Corn & Red Onion Ragout): 570 calories, 12 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 39 g fat (21 g saturated), 349 mg cholesterol, 758 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.
CORN & RED ONION RAGOUT
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup diced red onion
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups fresh corn kernels
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
INSTRUCTIONS: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small skillet over medium- high heat. Add the onion and toss for 1 minute to coat with the oil. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the lemon juice and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt; toss well. Set aside for at least 15 minutes.
-- For advance preparation: Cool completely, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
Put the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the corn, stock, thyme and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Simmer until the butter melts. Drain off the excess stock. Add the sauteed onion.
Serve with the corn pudding.
Serves 9.
-- For advance preparation: Prepare the corn mixture. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. To serve, bring the sauteed onions and the corn mixture to room temperature. Reheat the corn mixture in a skillet over medium heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until just warm. Add the onions and toss to combine.
PER SERVING: 75 calories, 2 g protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 4 mg cholesterol, 277 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
THAI RED CURRY
Similar to bay leaves, kaffir lime leaves are added to a dish for flavor; they are not meant to be eaten. They are available in Asian markets. From Malee Johnson of Malee Thai and Vietnamese Restaurant in San Francisco.
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 to 3 teaspoons Thai red curry paste
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
2 cups eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup sliced canned bamboo shoots
1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 green bell pepper, seeded, deribbed and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 1/2 cups coconut milk
1/4 cup shredded basil leaves
2 kaffir lime leaves (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the chicken breasts into long, thin slices.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the curry paste and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chicken and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until well coated with the curry paste.
Stir the sugar and fish sauce into the chicken broth. Add to the skillet and bring to a boil. Add the eggplant, bamboo shoots and red and green bell peppers. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender and the chicken is cooked through.
Add the coconut milk and return to a boil, then add the basil and optional kaffir lime leaves; immediately remove from heat.
Serve with steamed rice.
Serves 4.
-- For advance preparation: After adding the coconut milk, let the curry cool, then cover and refrigerate. May be made 1 day ahead. To serve, microwave on medium, stirring gently once or twice, until just heated through. Then stir in the basil and optional lime leaves.
PER SERVING: 405 calories, 31 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 27 g fat (17 g saturated), 66 mg cholesterol, 610 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.
BRAISED VEAL SHANKS WITH WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT
For the most flavor and best presentation, ask your butcher to cut and tie the shanks for you. From Ruggero Gadaldi of Antica Trattoria and Pesce restaurants in San Francisco.
INGREDIENTS:
The Veal
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 whole veal shanks (about 4 pounds total), cut nearly through at several intervals and tied back together with string
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 cup dry white wine
9 small red potatoes, halved
18 Italian cipollini onions, or pearl onions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 cup veal or chicken stock
Mushroom Ragout
1 1/2 pounds fresh wild mushrooms, preferably a mixture of chanterelles, black trumpets and lobster mushrooms
1 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt + salt, to taste
1/4 teaspoon white pepper + pepper, to taste
1 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
Rosemary and sage sprigs for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS: To prepare the veal: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add the veal shanks and sear them on all sides until golden brown, turning from time to time. This should take about 10 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Add the wine, cover tightly, and roast for 1 hour and 15 minutes, basting with pan juices every 15 minutes.
Season the potatoes with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add the potatoes, onions, sage, rosemary and stock to the veal. Cover, return to the oven and roast for 45 minutes. Check the veal for fork tenderness. If needed, cover and return to the oven for 15 minutes longer.
While the veal is roasting, prepare the ragout.
Mushroom ragout: Wipe the mushrooms clean with a soft damp cloth, then rinse them for a few seconds in a bowl of cool water. Dry them thoroughly on paper towels. Trim off the stems and cut the caps into thick slices.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic,
stir, then immediately add the mushrooms. Cook for 2 minutes. Season with the
1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add the wine and simmer, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 20 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat. Taste, and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Set aside until serving time.
Remove 1 cup of the cooking liquid from the veal and add it to the mushrooms, then stir in the parsley.
To serve: Transfer the shanks to a heated serving platter; remove the strings. Surround the shanks with the braised onions and potatoes. Top with the mushroom ragout. Garnish with rosemary and sage.
Serves 4.
-- For advance preparation: Let the shanks and the mushroom ragout cool, then cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. To serve, reheat the shanks in a 350 degrees oven for about 30 minutes, until just heated through, adding the mushroom ragout for the final 10 minutes. Or microwave the shanks on medium power, stirring once or twice, until heated through, adding the mushroom ragout for the final few minutes of heating.
PER SERVING: 1,195 calories, 70 g protein, 33 g carbohydrate, 79 g fat (15 g saturated), 257 mg cholesterol, 1,959 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.
VEGETABLE MOUSSAKA
From Jean Alberti of Kokkari restaurant in San Francisco.
INGREDIENTS:
Approximately 1 cup olive oil
1 large eggplant, cut crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick slices
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt + salt, to taste
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper + pepper, to taste
1 pound russet potatoes
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 large fennel bulb (white part only), thinly sliced crosswise
1 small garlic clove, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons ouzo
9 ounces button mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 cup shredded basil leaves
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
1/2 cup freshly shredded Parmesan cheese
INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Brush a baking sheet with oil. Brush both sides of the eggplant slices with a generous amount of olive oil. Season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the eggplant is soft. Let cool.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.
Peel the potatoes, then slice slightly thicker than the eggplant; season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Heat about 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the potatoes and saute for 8 to 10 minutes, until almost, but not quite tender. Set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, fennel and garlic and saute for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent. Add the ouzo and stir for 1 minute, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the mushrooms, tomato paste, 3/4 teaspoon of the cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and chunky. Stir in the basil, parsley and oregano.
Taste, and add more salt and pepper, if needed. Set aside.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Blend in the flour and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth and bubbling, about 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in the milk. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Set aside.
Grease a deep 3-quart casserole dish. Arrange the potato slices on the bottom, overlapping them to fit. Overlap half of the eggplant slices on top of the potatoes. Spread the vegetable sauce over the eggplant and top with the remaining eggplant slices. Spread about 1 1/2 cups of the white sauce over the eggplant, enough to cover the top thickly. Dust with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon. Sprinkle evenly with the Parmesan.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until browned and bubbling. Let sit for 20 minutes before serving.
Serves 4.
-- For advance preparation: Prepare all the individual components, cool them completely, cover and refrigerate separately for up to 1 day. Assemble just before baking.
PER SERVING: 945 calories, 16 g protein, 54 g carbohydrate, 74 g fat (20 g saturated), 58 mg cholesterol, 1,263 mg sodium, 9 g fiber.
CHAYOTE RELLENO
Richard Sandoval of Maya Restaurant in San Francisco says that the vegetables in the stuffing may be varied with the seasons. Whichever vegetables you choose, their flavor will intensify with advance roasting or grilling.
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 cup chopped chives
3 tablespoons canola oil
2 red bell peppers, seeded, deribbed and diced
1/2 cup water
3 cups peeled and coarsely chopped sweet potatoes
about 2 cups heavy cream
2 teaspoons sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 ears white or yellow corn, silks removed but husks intact
4 chayote squash
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups diced fresh shiitake mushrooms
1 cup diced carrots
1 cup shredded baby spinach
3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
INSTRUCTIONS: Puree the chives and canola oil in a blender. Transfer to a bowl; set aside.
Combine the peppers and water in the blender and puree. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a small saucepan. Place over medium-high heat and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, until syrupy. Set aside.
Put the sweet potatoes in a large saucepan and add cream to cover. Add the sugar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 16 to 18 minutes, until the potatoes are very tender. Transfer the potatoes with most of the cream to a blender and puree, adding a small amount of cream if necessary to reach a consistency a little thinner than mashed potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Place the unshucked ears of corn on a baking sheet and roast for about 30 minutes, until aromatic, tender and somewhat charred. Cool, then remove husks and silk. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cobs.
Peel the chayotes and cut them in half lengthwise. Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the chayotes and return the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 to 18 minutes, until tender. Drain and cool. Remove the seed from each and set the chayotes aside.
When ready to serve, gently rewarm the sweet potato puree in the microwave, or over low heat on the stovetop. Reheat the chayotes in a 350 degrees oven for 5 minutes.
Put the butter into a large skillet and place over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the corn kernels, shiitakes and carrots. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until the carrots are crisp-tender. Add the spinach and the goat cheese and cook, tossing gently, for 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, spoon the sweet potato puree into the center of heated serving plates. Drizzle the chive oil and red pepper reduction around the puree. Fill 4 chayote halves with the corn mixture and top with the remaining chayote halves. Place a stuffed chayote on each bed of sweet potato puree.
Serves 4.
-- For advance preparation: Refrigerate the chive oil, red pepper reduction,
the sweet potato puree and the chayotes for up to 1 day. Saute the corn, shiitakes and carrots, but do not add the spinach and goat cheese. Let cool, then refrigerate for up to 1 day. Before serving, bring all the components to room temperature. Reheat the sweet potato puree in a microwave, or over low heat on the stovetop. Reheat the chayotes in a 350 degrees oven for 5 minutes. Reheat the corn mixture in a microwave, or in a skillet over low heat until just hot, then toss in the spinach and goat cheese, and cook for 30 seconds.
PER SERVING: 900 calories, 15 g protein, 63 g carbohydrate, 69 g fat (37 g saturated), 195 mg cholesterol, 271 mg sodium, 12 g fiber.
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